Win Your Retinol War...

Time and time again, clients share with me their ongoing struggles with retinol usage. They say things like they were allergic due the severe reaction they had on their face. Although we never say never in this industry the reaction is typically self-induced from lack of education. My mission is to give you an easy to follow breakdown of how to set yourself up for success!Here's a quick break down to help you become more successful with this must have anti-aging product. Plan A, In the evening only, after washing your face apply your eye cream. The importance of your eye cream is to create a barrier. The sensitive eye area can easily become aggravated by your retinol. Next, apply a thin serum with hyaluronic acid in it. Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in the body and is essential for effective penetration because it is a natural lubricator. I have discovered, that  when the skin is properly hydrated from bottom to top it will respond to topical exfoliants in a more positive manner.  You need deeper hydration along with surface hydration to prevent those nasty temporary side effects! These can include redness, skin sensitivity and  looking like a snake shedding his skin!

I always recommend you getting into the healthy habit of applying topical exfoliants using my “Criss Cross” technique. Dispense a chocolate chip size amount of your exfoliating product ( in this case it’s your retinol) on your index finger.

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S Starting at your forehead gently place a dot your chocolate chip. Next, head down to your nose, chin, and lastly those cheeks. Do not  get overzealous thinking that it is a chocolate chip for each of these areas!!! It’s only one chocolate chip ladies and gentlemen! Check out your reflection and smile, you are on the right path to a long term relationship with retinol!  Now  gently rub your dots in and remember to avoid the eye area. Although you have created a barrier  with your eye cream it is still important to do this. The bodies temperature will naturally migrate any product into those little nooks  and crannies we have causing excessive irritation. Apply your heavier moisturizer and you are finished! I always recommend starting on a Monday, Wednesday and Friday evening only application for the first 2 weeks. If  your skin is a little pinker than usual don't be alarmed. If, you find yourself not liking your reflection in the mirror due to excessive redness or flakiness it’s time for plan B. If no irritation is present then slowly add one more night up until you reach 5-7 nights weekly.

Plan B is super easy. Apply your layers of moisture as you have before MINUS your retinol. On the Monday, Wednesday and Friday regimen your skin will have two nights to recalibrate and heal. Once your skin has normalized start the plan all over again with a little twist! Your steps will be eye cream, light weight serum, moisturizer THEN retinol. The more barriers we can create by properly hydrating the skin the lesser the reaction. Two weeks of your plan B with no negative side effects and you are ready to try plan A again!! You got this!!!

In The Know...

As, I was going thru some articles from Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa magazine this evening I couldn't resist sharing this fabulous tidbit of information. Like you, I was once an unwilling victim of marketing that uses words women cannot resist. You've heard and read them on pretty packaging. They say "buy me!" and you'll be wrinkle free, poreless and even toned! You probably don't even look at the price tag. The sales associate takes your card, swipes it and your out the door anticipating what you"ll look like the next morning...wrinkle free at last! NOT!!!! Being an uneducated consumer can cost you...

Decide not to fall for the smoke and mirrors routine of some companies in the skin care industry and come over to the "in the know" side. It's a lot prettier and in the long run will cost you less. Below is an excerpt from  Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa magazine and can also be found on their website www.LNEONLINE.com

Skin care products are separated into two specific categories by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA): Cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Topical pharmaceuticals penetrate thru the layers of the epidermis and have a biological effect on the structure and function of the living layers of the skin. Cosmetics on the other hand, are applied to the non-living surface of the skin to "cleanse, beautify and promote attractiveness".

Prior to approval, pharmaceuticals must complete extensive years of safety testing, which can cost millions of dollars. By contrast, cosmetics do not have to prove their claims, but may cite "clinical studies" on ingredients used in their formulation in order to substantiate their efficacy. Cosmeceuticals are not officially not recognized by the FDA; the word is actually a marketing term used to define a skin care product that fits a niche between a pharmaceutical and a cosmetic. They do have a degree of biological action, but still classify as "cosmetics"meaning the formulas are not required to prove efficacy and safety claims.

Enough said my friends...

The POWER of Prep...

Everyone is looking for a quick fix. I get it. Unfortunately it doesn't exist when it comes to correcting fine lines, tone, texture and pigmentation (brown discoloration) it's more of a marathon than a sprint. I know, I know...not what you wanted to hear. Think of me as your tough love, tell it like it is skin coach!:) In the long run you'll save alot of money and decrease your risk of any adverse side effects that cannot be corrected.

Anyone that's on the fence on having a chemical peel needs to do their due diligence and find a well established medical facility "spa" that is directly connected to a Dr.'s office. You want to see the physicians at the office, not just their certificates on the wall. Consultations are a must...you want to be well informed and have all your questions answered. If the facility was referred to you by a friend that's a good sign. Below are a few questions to ask!

• How much social downtime will I have?

• What post care products do I need?

• What results can I expect?

• What kind of peel (acid) are they recommending?

Now for my favorite part. Pre-treating (prepping) the skin is a MUST for any skin care business that has their clients best interest at heart. It's just my opinion but if you educate your clients that prepping the skin will lessen the down time AND give them the best results who wouldn't spend the extra money. Plus, you''ll be needing these products to help maintain your results. It's a WIN-WIN for all involved. Prep time is a minimum of 4 weeks.

The use of a retinol or glycolic product prior to a peel accomplishes two things. By thinning the epidermis (the upper layer of the skin) it allows the peel to penetrate deeper and more evenly. When your paying an upwards of 300 dollars for a mid-depth peel, deeper means more correction. It also has been known to help suppress the melanocyte pigment production that can potentially cause those ugly brown spots that you were looking to get rid of! If you have a heritage that is diverse or you tend to pigment after you have an injury you should also be on a hydroquinone product. These can only be prescribed by a medical facility so it's just another reason to spend the time and seek out true professionals. Check out my future blog on hydroquinone...I gotta keep you coming back for more!!:)